Versace: Donatella's A/W collection was undeniably glamorous and full of life. To start with, she opted for a stunning fur-lined runway, with black and white being the predominant colors through-out. This collection focuses on precision-cut pieces, particularly jackets and dresses, with heavy attention on silver detail and buckles. The draped dresses were all elegant and specific, but details such as thigh-high splits and low necklines created an instant feeling of allure. A 50's theme is also noticeable when we look at the long skirts and sheer ladder additions to the garments. The look that hasn't been around for a while is also making an appearance: long skirts over trousers. The pieces are fierce but still very sophisticated and feminine. If anyone can bring a modern twist to older trends, it's Donatella Versace.
Christian Dior: This collection was definitely going to make our list of favorites. Delicate, luxurious and Eighteenth century inspired, these pieces absolutely ooze elegance and brought forward older ideas in a real, modern way. Raf Simons made it easy to focus on the details. Starting with the powerful ballgowns, the pannier-skirted dresses were paired with discreet jewelry and each set progressed, showcasing a completely different look. One had a more sporty feel to it, particularly the jumpsuits with their zipped details and delicate designs. The Eighteenth century inspiration is evident here. The coats such as mink and cashmere, stood out and the simple, minimalist styling made it easy to focus on the elaborate fabrics. Simons successfully brought back historical references, while making the pieces all relevant to today's fashion.
Chanel: What did Karl Lagerfeld have in store for us this season? Typically, we look for grand sets and a big elaborate back drop but this time, it was a simple theme, which seemed to run throughout a lot of the other collections too. A plain white room with some bold accompaniments like a fake fire and a mirror was the perfect setting for him to showcase his detailed Eighteenth century pieces. Embroidery was the biggest sign that this collection would be drawing inspiration from a historical time period and the heavy use of crystals and sequins added another dimension of detail to the clothes. Tweed in particular was a big fabric he opted for and this fit in well with his Eighteenth century inspiration, particularly the jackets which he paired with simple, flats.
Maison Martin Margiela: A collection with bold prints and edgy cuts, this was an eagerly anticipated one. So much vivacity and excitement was in this couture collection, with decorative gowns and knee high boots. Thigh-high splits and clashing prints were noticeably used too and an Eastern feel runs throughout. In typical Maison Martin Margiela style, there's a quirky, raw feel to the pieces, which is mostly prominent in the bejeweled/net face masks used, making sure his outfits are complete from head to toe. Never one to shy away from patterns and slogans, the bold textures and fabrics used make sure this is a collection that stands out this A/W.
Valentino: Very clearly inspired by the beautiful city of Rome, this impeccable collection was a big favorite, as it brought back classics like gladiators, tunics and yoga dresses. Each item was modernized with bold accessories and we saw lots of use of lace and leather to decorate the pieces. The ancient city of Italy was brought to life, with simple but detailed effects such as mirrored tiles of the Vatican floor and Roman fountains. Very elegant and intricate, Italian traditions were definitely used in designs like the long, plunging dresses, where delicate weaves and patterns were explored. An amazing, stunning collection, where Valentino successfully delved into an older era and refreshed these fashion favorites.
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